Bandsaw Problems Vented. Ah ... Feels Good!

This is my understanding of how a bandsaw works.

Constants:

• Teeth are almost always on the front of the blade
• Teeth are almost always facing down on upright bandsaws (unless your vision is bad)
• From factory they come equipped with plenty of power

Differences:

• Capacity of blade width
• Guides
• Tension capabilities
• Throat and height differences
• Colors
• Motor sizes

When we demonstrate at Woodworking Shows, we have all kinds of customers ask relatively the same questions:

• what about tension?
• what about blade drift adjustments?
• should I use 3 or 4 tooth blades?
• why isn't your bandsaw stalling out and burning the wood like mine?
• why is your saw cutting so quiet
• why are you using such a narrow blade to resaw

So here is my answer to these questions and, as controversial as they may sound, sit back and think about how a bandsaw mill works.

First of all, a bandsaw mill has no adjustment for blade drift because it doesn't need one. The blade only goes off course when the blade is dull or if you hit  foreign material other than wood. The same holds true for an upright bandsaw. The blade will never drift unless it is dull. Blades that are manufactured in North America are extemely good quality, and do not come out of the package with built in blade drift, at least in the approx. 1000 blades that I have used.

Unfortunately, most users of upright bandsaws damage their new blade within the first few inches of cutting by pinching or putting side pressure on the blade. If you pinch the blade on a bandsaw or put side pressure on the blade, the set will change from one side of the blade to the other side. Example: if your blade is .025", the most set the blade could have is .00125" per side. More than likely the set would be .0010". If you put side pressure on a blade just for a few seconds, you could easily lose .0001" of set. This is not much when you consider a human hair is .0003". However, if you do lose .0001", that's 10% of the initial .0010". Therefore the blade will cut better or drift in the opposite direction. The more it drifts the more pinching occurs, especially when using a fence, the problem compounds itself with usage. The more you use it, the more it drifts.

How do you know if you're pinching the blade or putting side pressure on it? Simple. If you make a cut, shut of the machine and wait until the blade stops, you should be able to hold onto the blade with your hand just barely feeling warmth. It should not be hot. In my opinion, if it's hot then the blade is damaged. Also when you are cutting if you can see the blade deflection, or see that the blade is rubbing on one side of the guides, you can be assured your blade is getting hot.

All of this information pertains to resawing, or cutting straight. Just a coincidence, the Little Ripper converts your bandsaw to a sawmill and your saw, no matter what brand, will cut perfectly straight, whether resawing or cutting logs.

Now the question of cutting circles. The sawmill principle applies: if you pinch or put side pressure on the blade it will not cut where you want. Take the conventional circle cutter, pin on bottom.  When you rotate the wood through the blade on a single pin, the wood can rock. If it rocks,  it has pinched the blade and then the blade drifts. Blade damage has occurred.  If the wood is supported top and bottom, like it is in the Round Ripper, the wood is held stable and the blade won't get pinched. Therefore all pressure, all power, in your bandsaw can be exerted on the teeth and your saw will cut like it was meant to cut.

Now back to the differences in bandsaws - my opinion:

Guides: doesn't really matter as long as you're cutting with the teeth and not pushing on the side of the blade. I personally like Cool Blocks. They seem to keep my blade clean when I'm resawing, Especially on a upright saw, when the dust is falling directly on the guides. Many saws are equiped with roller guides.  They work fine. Just remember, bandsaw mills usually only run a guide on one side of the band.

Tension: Doesn't really matter as long as you're feed according to the size of your teeth. If pressure is put on the front of the blade, tension is not really a big deal. The tension gauge that comes on your saw is not always reliable but it gets you close enough.

Number of Teeth:  Don't feed faster than what the teeth can remove. Less teeth means a faster feed rate and a rougher cut.  More teeth means a slower feed rate and a smoother cut.

I've been using bandsaws for years and we have our own small sawmill operation. These are just some things I have learned through experience.

I realize that this goes against much of the current information, but I can say this from what I hear from many woodworkers.  The problems woodworkers are having with bandsaws are consistent across the country. Almost all problems are to do with premature blade damage caused by pinching or putting side pressure on the blade. I believe most woodworkers don't change their blades often enough, and blame their bandsaw, when they should be blaming the blade

Fences are the main culprit of blade damage. Fences cause problems because if the wood stresses when cutting and opens or closes, pushing or pulling you against the fence, it puts side pressure on the blade. Also, unlike a table saw, a bandsaw has no splitter.

I  hope this info helps.